Tree branch trimming showing where to cut a branch correctly

Where to Cut Branches When Trimming Trees

Knowing where to cut a tree branch is essential for protecting the health, structure and appearance of the tree. A poorly positioned cut can tear the bark, damage the trunk or leave a large wound that is slower to seal.

For South-East Queensland homeowners, careful tree pruning can also help manage deadwood, reduce hazards around buildings and prepare trees for severe weather. However, safe pruning involves much more than simply cutting a branch wherever it appears convenient.

This guide explains where pruning cuts should be made, how to remove heavier branches without tearing the bark and when the work should be left to professional tree loppers.

Where should you cut a tree branch? When removing an entire branch, make the final cut immediately outside the branch collar without cutting into the collar or leaving a long stub.

The branch collar is the slightly raised or swollen area where the branch connects to the trunk or a larger limb. This tissue plays an important role in the tree’s natural response to pruning wounds.

Why the Position of a Pruning Cut Matters

Trees do not heal pruning wounds in the same way human skin heals. Instead, a healthy tree gradually forms new tissue around the wound and isolates the affected wood.

Cutting in the correct location helps the tree respond as effectively as possible. Incorrect pruning can:

Remove protective tissue around the branch attachment
Create a wound larger than necessary
Tear bark down the trunk or supporting limb
Leave a stub that dies back and deteriorates
Encourage weakly attached regrowth
Alter the tree’s natural shape and structure
Increase the likelihood of future branch failure

Good pruning should have a clear purpose. This might include removing deadwood, improving clearance, managing a defective branch or directing the growth of a young tree.

Understanding the Branch Collar and Branch Bark Ridge

The Branch Collar

The branch collar is the raised or swollen area around the base of a branch. It may be clearly visible on some trees and much less obvious on others.

The final pruning cut should normally be made just outside this area rather than cutting through it.

The Branch Bark Ridge

The branch bark ridge is a raised line of bark in the upper section where a branch joins the trunk or another limb.

A correct cut is positioned outside both the bark ridge and branch collar while removing the branch cleanly.

Do not try to make the wound perfectly flat against the trunk. The correct angle will vary according to the way the branch is attached and the shape of the branch collar.

How to Cut a Small Tree Branch

A small, low branch that can be safely supported with one hand can generally be removed with clean, sharp secateurs or pruning saws.

Inspect the Branch Attachment

Locate the branch collar and branch bark ridge. Check that the branch is small enough to control and that it is not under unusual tension.
Position the Tool Outside the Collar

Place the blade immediately outside the branch collar. Do not cut into the trunk and do not leave an unnecessarily long stub.
Make One Clean Cut

Support the branch as you cut so its weight does not pull it down and tear the remaining bark.
Leave the Wound Alone

Do not routinely apply paint, tar or wound dressing. The tree should be allowed to begin its natural wound response unless specialist advice recommends otherwise.

How to Cut a Larger Branch: The Three-Cut Method

A heavier branch should not be removed with one cut at the trunk. As the branch begins to fall, its weight can tear a strip of bark and wood down the trunk.

The three-cut method removes the weight first and leaves a smaller section that can then be cut accurately outside the branch collar.

Make an Undercut

Make a shallow cut into the underside of the branch approximately 30 to 45 centimetres away from its attachment. Do not cut all the way through.
Remove the Weight of the Branch

Make a second cut from the top, slightly further out from the trunk than the undercut. Continue until the outer section breaks away. The undercut helps stop the bark from tearing back towards the trunk.
Make the Final Pruning Cut

Remove the remaining stub with a controlled cut immediately outside the branch collar. Do not cut through the collar or make the cut flush with the trunk.

Do Not Attempt to Remove a Branch You Cannot Control

Even a relatively short branch can be extremely heavy. If it could strike you, another person, a building, a fence or a vehicle, the work requires professional equipment and controlled rigging techniques.

Flush Cuts and Stub Cuts: What Is the Difference?

Correct Branch-Collar Cut

Removes the branch without cutting into the trunk
Retains the branch collar
Creates only the wound necessary to remove the branch
Supports the tree’s natural wound response

Incorrect Cut

A flush cut slices into the collar and trunk tissue
A stub cut leaves too much of the branch behind
A single cut on a heavy limb can tear the bark
An indiscriminate heading cut can stimulate weak regrowth

Where to Cut When Shortening a Branch

Sometimes the objective is to shorten a branch rather than remove it completely. This should generally be done with a reduction cut back to a suitable lateral branch.

The remaining lateral branch must be large enough and well positioned to continue the growth of the shortened limb. Cutting a branch at an arbitrary point can leave a stub and produce dense, poorly attached shoots near the cut.

Reduction pruning requires an understanding of tree structure. Extensive reductions, work on mature trees and pruning intended to manage structural defects should be completed by an experienced arborist.

When Is the Best Time to Trim Trees in South-East Queensland?

There is no single pruning season that suits every species growing in South-East Queensland. The appropriate timing depends on:

The tree species
Its age, health and current condition
The amount of foliage being removed
Whether the tree is flowering or producing fruit
The reason the work is being undertaken
Recent heat, drought, flooding or storm stress

Dead, broken or immediately hazardous branches may need to be removed as soon as it is safe to do so. Non-urgent structural or canopy pruning should be planned for a time that places the least stress on the particular tree.

Avoid carrying out heavy, unnecessary pruning simply because a certain month is commonly described as “pruning season”. Local climate, tree biology and the amount of work proposed all need to be considered.

How Much of a Tree Can Be Pruned at Once?

There is no universal percentage that is appropriate for every tree. The amount that can be safely removed depends on the species, maturity, health and reason for pruning.

Young, actively growing trees may tolerate carefully planned structural pruning better than mature or stressed trees. Large-scale canopy removal from an established tree can:

Reduce the tree’s capacity to produce energy
Expose previously shaded bark and branches to intense sunlight
Trigger rapid and weakly attached regrowth
Place additional stress on an unhealthy tree
Change the way wind passes through the canopy

Pruning should generally be limited to what is necessary to achieve a defined safety, clearance or tree-management objective.

Common Tree Branch Trimming Mistakes

Mistake	Why It Can Cause Problems	Better Approach
Cutting flush with the trunk	Removes the branch collar and creates a larger wound.	Cut immediately outside the branch collar.
Leaving a long stub	The remaining section may die back and deteriorate.	Remove the branch cleanly without cutting into the collar.
Using one cut on a heavy limb	The falling branch can strip bark from the trunk.	Use the three-cut method or engage a professional.
Removing too much foliage	Can stress the tree and trigger excessive regrowth.	Remove only what is needed for a clear objective.
Topping the tree	Leaves large wounds and commonly produces weakly attached shoots.	Use properly planned reduction or structural pruning.
Using blunt or unsuitable tools	Can crush, tear or splinter the branch.	Use clean, sharp tools suited to the branch diameter.
Working from a ladder with a chainsaw	Creates a serious risk of falls, kickback and loss of control.	Engage a suitably equipped tree service.

Professional tree lopper safely pruning a tree in Brisbane

Never Trim Trees Near Powerlines Yourself

Branches do not need to be touching a powerline to present an electrical risk. Tools, ladders, branches, elevated work platforms and people must remain outside the applicable exclusion zone.

Energex advises property owners to use a professional arborist or tree trimmer for vegetation growing near powerlines and not to attempt the work themselves.

If a tree is growing into or touching street powerlines, report the vegetation concern to Energex. Do not attempt to cut, pull or move the branch.

Powerline Emergency

Always treat fallen or damaged powerlines as live. Keep well clear, call 000 if there is an immediate danger and report the fault to the electricity network provider.

Do You Need Council Permission to Prune a Tree?

Tree protection requirements differ between councils throughout South-East Queensland. Approval may be required when a tree is protected under a local law, planning provision or vegetation protection order.

In Brisbane, property owners must obtain permission before carrying out even minor pruning on a Council street tree outside their property. Protected vegetation on private property may also require approval before pruning or removal.

Before commencing significant work:

Confirm whether the tree is on private or Council-owned land
Check whether the vegetation is protected
Review your local council’s current pruning requirements
Obtain written approval when it is required
Keep photographs and records when urgent hazard work is necessary

Brisbane property owners can check the current requirements through Brisbane City Council’s protected vegetation information.

Which Branches Can Homeowners Safely Trim?

DIY pruning should be limited to small branches that can be reached safely from the ground with suitable hand tools.

Lower-Risk DIY Work

Small branches within easy reach from the ground
Minor formative pruning on young trees
Small dead twigs that can be safely controlled
Light pruning with sharp hand tools

Call a Professional

Branches requiring climbing or ladder access
Heavy limbs that cannot be supported by hand
Branches above roofs, fences or vehicles
Storm-damaged, split or suspended branches
Any vegetation near powerlines
Pruning involving a substantial part of the canopy

When Tree Pruning Should Be Left to an Arborist

Contact a professional when the branch is too large to control, the tree has structural defects or the work could place people or property at risk.

Professional assistance is particularly important when:

A branch is split, cracked or partly detached
The tree has been damaged by a storm
Limbs are overhanging the house, pool, driveway or neighbouring property
The work requires climbing, rigging or elevated equipment
The tree is very large or difficult to access
The tree may be protected by local regulations
You are unsure how much foliage can be safely removed

Professional Tree Services Across South-East Queensland

GDE Tree Services has been providing professional tree care throughout the South-East Queensland corridor since 1987.

Our services include:

Tree pruning and canopy management
Deadwood and hazardous branch removal
Tree felling and removal
Storm preparation pruning
Emergency tree removal
Structural pruning and crown thinning
Palm tree removal
Stump grinding and removal
Large and difficult tree work
Commercial land clearing

Frequently Asked Questions About Trimming Tree Branches

Where should you cut a branch from a tree?

When removing the complete branch, make the final cut immediately outside the branch collar. Do not cut flush with the trunk and do not leave a long stub.

What happens if you cut through the branch collar?

Cutting through the collar removes tissue involved in the tree’s natural response to the wound. It also creates a larger wound than necessary and may damage the trunk.

Why should large branches be removed with three cuts?

The first two cuts remove the weight of the branch while helping prevent bark from tearing down the trunk. The final cut then removes the remaining stub just outside the branch collar.

Should a pruning cut be straight or angled?

The cut should follow the natural position of the branch collar and branch bark ridge. It should not be given an arbitrary angle or made flat against the trunk.

Can I seal a branch after cutting it?

Pruning paint and wound sealants are not routinely required. In most situations, a correctly positioned, clean pruning cut should be left uncovered.

How much of a tree can be trimmed at one time?

There is no safe percentage that applies to every tree. The appropriate amount depends on the species, age, health, condition and purpose of the work. Mature or stressed trees may tolerate considerably less canopy removal.

What is the difference between tree lopping and pruning?

Pruning usually refers to selective cuts made for a defined tree-health, safety or clearance objective. Tree lopping is a broader term that is sometimes used for heavy cutting, branch removal or general tree work.

Can I trim a tree growing near powerlines?

No homeowner should attempt to trim branches near powerlines. Energex advises using a professional arborist or tree trimmer and reporting vegetation that is growing into or touching street powerlines.

Do I need council approval to trim a tree?

Approval may be required for protected vegetation or trees on Council land. Requirements vary between South-East Queensland councils, so check with the relevant local council before significant pruning begins.